Auto-engage safety on my Micros.....

Discussion in 'General Crossbow Discussion' started by Jack Pine, Mar 13, 2018.

  1. Jack Pine

    Jack Pine Active Member

    Got my replacement triggers back after the recall and decided to convert them to auto-engage. Liked it so well, I converted a couple of Excalibur triggers as well, and am in the process of converting a Chace trig [Excal clone]. I have to say I'm extremely happy with the results, and they work perfect every time. Here's a couple pix, if you look close, you can see the polished, hardened, and ground stainless steel rod that does all the work.
    DSC01031.JPG DSC01033.JPG

    First pic is the Excal and last is the aftermarket replacement. I just love an auto-engage safety!
  2. Masboy

    Masboy Active Member

    Kind of like the Middleton auto safety I seen an a fine ideal you got there. wonder why Excalibur never done that.all the things they say Middleton copyed from them, I don,t call it stealing when you copy something an make it better :p trigger number 2 is a fine looking piece,an like that bearing.
    Jack Pine and xcaliber like this.
  3. jacol84

    jacol84 Active Member

    Nice job, Cal. Always figured that was a do-able job if you don't mind voiding the warranty. Well-done, sir.

    Is the bottom trigger the Chace? Looks pretty well made. The pin at the trigger/sear contact point is certainly interesting. Does the trigger part have a bearing?
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2018
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  4. bbahunter

    bbahunter Active Member

    Really nice job jackpine :cool:
    Jack Pine likes this.
  5. Oppie

    Oppie Active Member

    Sweet mod, thanks for sharing. I may have to consider that if I get another snow day.
    Excal didn't add auto safety for years for the same reason they couldn't add a anti-dry fire, nobody knows why!
    Jack Pine likes this.
  6. Jack Pine

    Jack Pine Active Member

    Jeff, the bottom trig is the recall replacement, and the pin at the sear is the "roller" part of the roller sear. That pin isn't stationary, both ends fit into a slot that allows it to move when the trigger is pulled, or the mechanism is locked.
    Yep, it does have a tiny caged roller bearing at the trigger bar pivot. I didn't include Chace pix because I need a new drill bit to finish the conversion, will post it later if I ever get to town to get more bits.
    jacol84 likes this.
  7. jacol84

    jacol84 Active Member

    Thanks, Cal. I think I understand. It's a trigger tech recall trigger?

    Do you notice any increased noise when cocking? I know my Middleton triggers make a much louder click when cocking than my Matrix 405 trigger does.
  8. Jack Pine

    Jack Pine Active Member

    Jeff, I didn't want to mention any names, just that they are an aftermarket trigger. I don't know what kind of crapstorm would be unleashed if someone threw me down the stairs by telling them I'm altering THEIR triggers, even though I own them? I just love lawyers and this litigious society we live in!!!
    Went and got some new 1/8" bits yesterday, here's a pic of the Chace trig I finished. Looks a lot like the Excal, don't it? Some differences in size and hole spacing though.
    Chace trig.JPG
  9. Oppie

    Oppie Active Member

    True story right there kids. I figure it's mine, if I want to break it, so what, but then I don't cry when I do break my toys cause it's my fault.

    My understanding was they had issues with the roller area cracking\chipping\flaking whatever?
  10. Jack Pine

    Jack Pine Active Member

    If you want to try it, here's some more pix and a few things to watch out for.

    I don't have an elaborate machine setup, just a drill press and drill press vice. Since I had several to do, I used a jaw clamp so I could repeat the operations without having to set up every time.

    Be sure you don't get into the case screw threads. This will cause the rod to be pinned when you tighten the case screw, if you even can.

    You should square the triggerbox to the drillpress or mill, against the stationary jaw.

    Use a half-and-half mixture of liquid soap and water for a coolant/lube. You will be drilling through .800 thick aluminum with a small bit that will want to seize and break if you're not careful. Drill by pecking, and not straight-through. Aluminum doesn't like an oil lube as much as it likes soap solution.

    If you use an 1/8" stainless steel dowel pin, check that the motion is free to sloppy. If it's tight, redrill with a #30 bit [.129].

    Get as close as you can to the case screw threads without getting into them. You want to be as close to the safety switch lever pivot pin as you can get. You need all the mechanical advantage you can get because you don't get much movement to set the safety.

    So, what's the worst that can happen if you screw up? You might lose springs or the detent ball, but other than that, as long as you stay out of those case threads, the worst that can happen is you just have a hole in the case that isn't going to show; the triggerbox will work the same as before, you'll just have to manually set the safety when you cock it.

    When you grind the dowel pin to shorten it, check it often, a little too much grinding will shorten it enough to be useless.
    1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG 4.JPG 5.JPG 6.JPG 7.JPG 8.JPG
  11. Jack Pine

    Jack Pine Active Member

    They said they used a carbide roller and it could possibly crack, flake, or break, but no failures were reported for Excal.
    Oppie likes this.
  12. Jack Pine

    Jack Pine Active Member

    Sorry I didn't answer this question Jeff. I didn't pay any attention to noise, so I can't say for sure, but I would think the cocking noise would be about the same. the sear engagement or angle doesn't change, but moving the safety lever itself might make an unnoticeable noise.
  13. Jack Pine

    Jack Pine Active Member

    Frank, the Midi is where I got the idea. Clever guy, that Derrick. Here's a pic of the Midi showing the slot the rod slides in.
    Midi trig.JPG

    Notice that red line and how it is machined on an angle, allowing the claws to give more movement in setting the safety. I was going to send the trigs out to the machine shop, because the Midi trig has that slot milled into it that the rod fits in. I don't have the ability to mill a slot with my drill press, but got to looking at it and figured drilling a hole would work just as well. It does.
  14. Oppie

    Oppie Active Member

    Thanks for all the information, looks easy enough even a ole hack like me can do it.
    Jack Pine likes this.
  15. jacol84

    jacol84 Active Member

    Sorry, Cal. Did not for a seccond think about that aspect of it. I saw in your last pic how one of my Middleton triggers is - slotted. Others have the hole drilled, as some very clever guy who shall remain nameless also did.

    AND that angle you showed on the Sniper trigger also explains the issue I had when Brian sent the Patriot hybrid down here. I put the sniper trigger and the red forward lever in the thumbhole stock. There was not enough room for the trigger blade to move far enough to get the sniper to click in.:eek: Now, when you have a 290# draw recurve that is stuck between the Guardian ADF, and a trigger that won't click in and hold the string, you got yourself a party!;) I do love that sniper trigger though. Wish I had at least one more.:cool:
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2018
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